L.A.B., Toronto

Chef Howard Dubrovsky and Chef Chris Scott ‘s new addition to College Street, which opens today, is certainly an ambitious effort. And while its location alone could be enough to keep it slammed with a semi-sophisticated bohemian crowd sipping Baltic whites with their bloomy cheeses, Live and Breathe – or rather, L.A.B. – curiously adheres to an ethos that diners have grown tired of; molecular gastronomy.

L.A.B. is postage-stamp small – it takes over the tiny space that was previously Bite Noodles – but it nonetheless packs maximum personality per square inch. Polished tables? Check. Puffy banquettes? Check. Handsome back bar? Check. Yes, all this and a day-glo wall mural provide the rustic backdrop for some seasonal, refined, rustic cuisine. But, there won’t be any rustic fare at 651 College Street.

See, Chefs Dubrovsky and Scott (who was the right-hand man to David Adjey ) have taken over what was an otherwise ignorable locale to be something of a stage, more or less, for their own version of all things molecular; small plates, high concept. The dishes on L.A.B ‘s menu don’t really fall under any specific genre of food, but Dubrovsky describes the general category as “accessible molecular gastronomy,” which leaves us curling a brow. While ‘molecular gastronomy’ may register as circa 2007, the boys say they have their own way of working with cultural culinary techniques and global ingredients – just prepared and combined in a way you’ve likely never had before.

The pre-opening tasting menu features a small but wickedly original sampling, if a tad Food Network-esque: With the “No Rhyme Risotto,” the Cabernet Sauvignon powder playing ingénue to Dubrovsky ‘s carrot risotto ($16). The Korean gnocchi ($16) with a pomodoro sauce boasts house-made ricotta and Thai basil. I suppose sous vide had to make its way into the picture, and here it is in a lamb version ($24), with cigar-smoked gnocchi and brown butter. And seriously, how can anyone resist a thing called “Steak and Cake” – 8-hour steak, carrot, beet and onion cakes ($27). Sold!

Molecular gastronomy aside (and we assure you, this is the last mention of that phrase you’ll see on MBO), the cooking at L.A.B. is smart and imaginative, the food that results from it elegant and full of flavour. (The plates aren’t even that small.) Aside from kicking some life into “words-that-can-no-longer-be-mentioned”, the team of Dubrovsky and Scott will need a hook to stand out on this far end of College. The menu – which is remarkably free of stuff that’s available everywhere else – will certainly be the trump card – but the little space designed by The Design Agency (the team that just finished up re-designing Brassaii) should seal the deal.

Address: 651 College St, Toronto, ON
Contact: 416-551-5025
Cuisine: Fusion
Area: College Street
Venue: Restaurant, Lounge
Hours: Opening April 1st
2010
Price Range: $$$ (Within Reach)
Payment: Master Card, Visa, American Express

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