Lemon Twist, Miami
It doesn’t take a cultural anthropologist to figure out that it is not the practice of the French to take things over-the-top, if you need proof, look at the success (or lack thereof) of Euro Disney. In the same vein, Americans typically like things grand-scale. Again, if you need proof, see the history of Las Vegas for details or, for that matter, Disneyworld.
With that said, Florida, a state that houses both Disneyworld and Miami, is very familiar with inflated everything — clubs, egos, even breasts. So now that Lemon Twist has opened its subtle, French bistro doors in North Miami Beach, it has added a much needed slice of refreshment to the larger than life dining scene.
Owners Alain and Nicole Suissa, who opened Grass Restaurant and Lounge, another location that was atypical for Miami in its attempts to create a natural-feeling vibe, have a propensity to go against the grain. Still, it does seem somewhat strange to refer to Lemon Twist, a classical French bistro, as a restaurant that is any way antithetical. But Miami is just not a classic city (not that there’s anything wrong with that).
The distinguished menu, designed by Franck Hierholzer (Fig and Olive) is comprised of such French cuisine paradigms as caramelized onion soup, crispy duck with oranges and glazed turnips, and filet mignon with wild mushrooms. While the space itself — warm burgundy walls, candle lighting, and Provencal table linens — works as a subtle backdrop — not a flashy counterpart — to the bold tasting, simple food.
If nothing else, there’s one thing to be said about Lemon Twist, it’s certainly more fulfilling to see stills from a Francois Truffaut film on the walls than it is to stare at shots of Mickey Mouse. Just saying.
Address: 908 71st Street, Miami Beach, FL
Area: North Miami Beach
Price Range: $$$ (Within Reach)
Payment: Master Card, Visa, American Express
Visit MartiniBoys.com to find the best restaurants, clubs, bars, theatre and art galleries in Toronto, Vancouver, Montreal, Calgary, Miami and New York City.