The Son Also Rises: A Super Supper Club
As a competitor on last year’s Top Chef Canada, chef Vittorio Colacitti battled some of the country’s best culinary talent. But for his second act, he took on an even bigger challenge: the opening of The Good Son, a new take on the supper club concept in Toronto’s Queen West and Dovercourt area.
The eatery’s name comes from Colacitti’s mother who always calls him “the good son” (and yes, he’s also the only son), while his culinary ambitions also have familial roots.
“I was born and raised to be a chef. My grandfather was a chef; my other grandfather was a farmer,” he explains. His resume includes working in the kitchens of George, Lucien and Didier and spending formative years in Italy and on the West Coast. This global education informs this chef’s self-described Toronto cuisine.
“I don’t want to limit myself. I really enjoy Asian flavours. There will be Thai and a little bit of Japanese. In terms of flavour profile, I really like spice in most of my food. I like heat and a good amount of acidity. There’s never going to be bland food.”
True to his word, his menu includes a juicy, perfectly seasoned gourmet burger served with addictive fries, plump jerk shrimp, soy maple chicken and sarsaparilla side ribs.
But the real attraction? The pizzas cooked in an authentic wood-fire oven. “It’s a real science to do pizza very well. We’re using a rare technique, a three-day cold fermentation,” he says. Somewhere between a traditional Neapolitan- and a Roman-style pie, the pizzas are topped with local fior di latte cheese and Quebec bufala mozzarella.
The decor is as eclectic as the menu – button-tucked banquettes, a feature wall of clocks and bookshelves stocked with novels, photos and thrift-store tchotchkes speak to the diverse neighbourhood.
Wild Mushroom Tagliatelle
From Vittorio Colacitti,
chef-owner of The Good Son
This dough is versatile enough for making stuffed pasta such as ravioli. Here, we are using it for long pasta (tagliatelle is like a wide flat linguine). The semolina makes the dough more toothsome than a strictly all-purpose flour recipe. The key to making great pasta dough is to knead it thoroughly. This is best achieved with a slow mixing speed to allow the liquid to incorporate evenly into the flour mixture. I prefer oyster mushrooms or most wild mushrooms such as chanterelles. If unavailable, portobellos with the gillsremoved work well. When selecting mushrooms, make sure they are firm and not moist.
Makes 6 servings
12 egg yolks
20 ml olive oil
mushrooms (for about 6 servings of pasta)
2 sprigs thyme
2 onions, chopped
4 sprigs thyme
1 fresh bay leaf