Salerno: good, healthy food

With the temptations offered by this area of southern Italy, how could I resist the call when I was invited to “Legendary Salerno,” a symposium organized by the Boston-based Oldways Exchange and Preservation Trust. Reports on the various health benefits of the Mediterranean diet continue to be published at a regular pace. As a dietitian, I have an obligation to check out the cuisine firsthand. After all, my praises of this eating style, based on an abundance of fruits, vegetables, grains and olive oil with wine in moderation, should be based on personal experience. Sometimes, it can be a very tough job!

The conference began in the northern part of Salerno and made its way down the coast, all the while the delegates – chefs, nutritionists and food writers – sampled the specialties of each locale: seasonal produce, buffalo milk mozzarella, anchovies fresh from the sea, traditional pizza, lemon liqueur limoncello and the cheeses of the mountains. The often simple preparations demonstrated that high-quality ingredients can yield fare that not only promotes good health but tempts any food lover.

Oldways is the same group that has created awarens of both the health-promoting and palate-pleasing attributes of the Mediterranean diet. It is a diet and lifestyle first made famous in scientific circles by American scientist Ancel Keys, the researcher who initially visited the region as an American soldier during World War II. Keys was so enamored with the area’s beauty and cuisine that he made it his second home. Its inhabitants and the secrets behind their good health became his passion.

It just tastes better
The mozzarella cheese found throughout this region is made from the milk of the water buffalo, not that of the cow. Water buffalo were introduced to the area in the seventh century because they were able to work and reproduce in marshy surroundings, making them an ideal food source for the poor classes of the times. It was many centuries later that the milk of the animal was used for a variety of cheeses, such as mozzarella, caciocavallo and ricotta. Mozzarella di bufala, as it is known in Italy, bears no resemblance to the often rubbery mozzarella we know here in North America. And wherever we journeyed throughout the conference, we couldn’t get enough of this melt-in-your-mouth, richly flavoured cheese.

And then there was the pizza – again, like the mozzarella, completely different from that on this side of the Atlantic. Forget the double cheese and pepperoni fat-laden pies that give this food its bad nutritional rating. We learned about pizza making from a master during a cooking class on the outdoor terrace fitted with a wood-burning oven at breathtaking King’s Residence Hotel in Palinuro, high on a cliff overlooking the sea and and stunning grottos. Our instructor, Carmela Guzzo, points out it’s the quality of the ingredients that make for a great pizza. And less is more.

Being enthusiastic students, we couldn’t wait to flatten our dough and top it with tomatoes, mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil and fresh basil. And we devoured our “research” in a flash.

The delighful anchovy
In the fishing village of Pisciotta, where centuries-old fishing techniques are still used, the anchovy became our focus. Unlike the anchovies eaten in North America, most dishes in the region use fresh, not salted, fish. To showcase their versatility, locals prepared a range of dishes – anchovies in ways you might never imagine. We sampled the fresh fish – known in this form as alici – in salads with lemon, stuffed in eggplant, stewed with tomatoes and herbs, and even stuffed with goat cheese, garlic, onions, basil and olive oil.

Next page: Why grazing is good for cheese; recipes

Up in the Cilento Mountains, we experienced agriturismo, the newest form of tourism in Italy. Almost like a bed-and-breakfast, the farms, which produce artisanal food products, offer meals and lodging to tourists who want to sample local flavours and customs. Almost everything served is from the area’s farms – wines, breads, produce, preserves and cheeses. As we savoured cheeses such as ricotta, pecorino and robiola, we learned the reasons for their exceptional taste; how the animals – cows, sheep and water buffalo – are raised, their exercise and what they feed on determine their flavour and nutritional value. As the grasses and herbs may vary, animals grazing on one side of the mountain may produce a different cheese than those from the other side.

And it’s not just the taste that is superior. According to ANFOSC, the non-profit association whose mission is to safeguard and value cheeses made only with milk from grazing animals, these products may also be better nutritional choices as they contain greater amounts of conjugated linoleic acid, a type of fat that may provide a variety of health benefits. The cholesterol counts of these traditional cheeses may also be lower than animals that do not graze.

Living off the land
The true Mediterranean diet associated with good health was known as cucina povera, or cuisine of the poor, because poverty required its inhabitants to live off the land and eat by the seasons. But in this land with its abundant offerings, it seems like anything but the cuisine of the poor – particularly when chef Alberto Citterio is at the helm in the kitchen at Hotel Le Sirenuse, an 18th-century palazzo in a spectacular setting  overlooking the Bay of Positano on the Amalfi Coast.

While scientific research may provide the region with accolades in terms of its nutritional scores, the cuisine is earning rave reviews in culinary circles as well. Hotel Le Sirenuse, as well as being named the top property in the world by Condé Nast in 2003, also earned an award in the category of Best Food at a Resort in Travel and Leisure magazine.

Seasonal cooking is Citterio’s pleasure: in March and April, he prepares artichokes and asparagus; in May, it’s leafy vegetables; and all year long, there are different kinds of tomatoes. Each morning, Citterio ventures down to the local fish market. The cheeses, such as fresh buffalo mozzarella and provolone, come from farms he has personally chosen. The food simply dazzles the palate.

Here’s a sampling of a few dishes from legendary Salerno.

Pizza Margherita
Named in honour of Queen Margherita and with colours representing the Italian flag, this pizza is a classic. Look for fresh mozzarella or substitute bocconcini (small mozzarella balls).

1/2 lb (500 g) pizza dough  
1/2 cup (125 ml) canned diced tomatoes 
5 oz (150 g) fresh mozzarella cheese, diced
1 cup (250 ml) cherry tomatoes, halved 
16 basil leaves 
2 tbsp (25 ml) extra virgin olive oil 
Salt and freshly ground pepper

• Heat oven to 500°F (260°C). Lightly oil 2 large pizza pans; set aside.
• Divide pizza dough in half. Set one half aside. Working on a lightly floured surface, use fingers to flatten and stretch the dough into a roughly 8-inch (20 cm) circle. Transfer to one of the prepared pizza pans. Continue pressing dough until it fits just inside rim of pan. Repeat with remaining dough and pan.
• Spread the canned tomatoes evenly on each pizza; sprinkle with mozzarella; top with cherry tomatoes and half the basil. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until golden and crusty. Remove from oven. Top with remaining fresh basil and serve immediately.

Makes 2 or 3 servings.
per-serving nutritional information: calories: 409; protein: 15 g; fat: 16 g; saturated fat: 5 g; carbohydrate: 37 g; dietary fibre: 2 g; sodium: 325 mg.

Next page: Pasta with Tomato, Eggplant, Anchovy and Caper Sauce; Roasted Fish with Fennel and Lemon

Up in the Cilento Mountains, we experienced agriturismo, the newest form of tourism in Italy. Almost like a bed-and-breakfast, the farms, which produce artisanal food products, offer meals and lodging to tourists who want to sample local flavours and customs. Almost everything served is from the area’s farms – wines, breads, produce, preserves and cheeses. As we savoured cheeses such as ricotta, pecorino and robiola, we learned the reasons for their exceptional taste; how the animals – cows, sheep and water buffalo – are raised, their exercise and what they feed on determine their flavour and nutritional value. As the grasses and herbs may vary, animals grazing on one side of the mountain may produce a different cheese than those from the other side.

And it’s not just the taste that is superior. According to ANFOSC, the non-profit association whose mission is to safeguard and value cheeses made only with milk from grazing animals, these products may also be better nutritional choices as they contain greater amounts of conjugated linoleic acid, a type of fat that may provide a variety of health benefits. The cholesterol counts of these traditional cheeses may also be lower than animals that do not graze.

Living off the land
The true Mediterranean diet associated with good health was known as cucina povera, or cuisine of the poor, because poverty required its inhabitants to live off the land and eat by the seasons. But in this land with its abundant offerings, it seems like anything but the cuisine of the poor – particularly when chef Alberto Citterio is at the helm in the kitchen at Hotel Le Sirenuse, an 18th-century palazzo in a spectacular setting  overlooking the Bay of Positano on the Amalfi Coast.

While scientific research may provide the region with accolades in terms of its nutritional scores, the cuisine is earning rave reviews in culinary circles as well. Hotel Le Sirenuse, as well as being named the top property in the world by Condé Nast in 2003, also earned an award in the category of Best Food at a Resort in Travel and Leisure magazine.

Seasonal cooking is Citterio’s pleasure: in March and April, he prepares artichokes and asparagus; in May, it’s leafy vegetables; and all year long, there are different kinds of tomatoes. Each morning, Citterio ventures down to the local fish market. The cheeses, such as fresh buffalo mozzarella and provolone, come from farms he has personally chosen. The food simply dazzles the palate.

Here’s a sampling of a few dishes from legendary Salerno.

Pizza Margherita
Named in honour of Queen Margherita and with colours representing the Italian flag, this pizza is a classic. Look for fresh mozzarella or substitute bocconcini (small mozzarella balls).

1/2 lb (500 g) pizza dough  
1/2 cup (125 ml) canned diced tomatoes 
5 oz (150 g) fresh mozzarella cheese, diced
1 cup (250 ml) cherry tomatoes, halved 
16 basil leaves 
2 tbsp (25 ml) extra virgin olive oil 
Salt and freshly ground pepper

• Heat oven to 500°F (260°C). Lightly oil 2 large pizza pans; set aside.
• Divide pizza dough in half. Set one half aside. Working on a lightly floured surface, use fingers to flatten and stretch the dough into a roughly 8-inch (20 cm) circle. Transfer to one of the prepared pizza pans. Continue pressing dough until it fits just inside rim of pan. Repeat with remaining dough and pan.
• Spread the canned tomatoes evenly on each pizza; sprinkle with mozzarella; top with cherry tomatoes and half the basil. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until golden and crusty. Remove from oven. Top with remaining fresh basil and serve immediately.

Makes 2 or 3 servings.
per-serving nutritional information: calories: 409; protein: 15 g; fat: 16 g; saturated fat: 5 g; carbohydrate: 37 g; dietary fibre: 2 g; sodium: 325 mg.

Next page: Pasta with Tomato, Eggplant, Anchovy and Caper Sauce; Roasted Fish with Fennel and Lemon

Pasta with Tomato, Eggplant, Anchovy and Caper Sauce

Eggplants, capers, garlic, tomatoes and extra virgin olive oil are all typical fare of the region. And anchovies, while often served fresh, are also preserved for the off-season. As some of the ingredients may be salty, be a little stingy with the salt when cooking the pasta

1 eggplant (about 1 lb/ 500 g), peeled and finely diced 
Salt
2 anchovy fillets
1 tbsp (15 ml) extra virgin olive oil  
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tbsp (15 ml) capers, rinsed well   
2 tbsp (25 ml ) chopped black olives 
1  can (28 oz/796 ml) plum tomatoes with juices, coarsely chopped  
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 lb (250 g) whole wheat penne or other short pasta 
2 tbsp (25 ml) shredded fresh basil   
1/4 cup (50 ml) freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese 

• Place diced eggplant in colander and sprinkle with salt. Let drain for 30 minutes; rinse well and pat dry. Set aside. 
• Cover anchovies with lukewarm water and soak for 5 minutes to remove salt. Drain and chop finely; set aside.
• In large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Cook garlic for 30 seconds. Add eggplant; sauté for 5 minutes. Stir in anchovies, capers, olives and tomatoes. Simmer over medium-low heat for 25 to 30 minutes or until eggplant is tender, stirring occasionally to break up the tomatoes. Season with pepper.
• In large pot of boiling water, cook pasta until al dente. Drain well. Add pasta to sauce and let stand for 2 minutes. Serve garnished with basil and pecorino cheese. 

Makes 4 servings.
per-serving nutritional information: calories: 380; protein: 17 less g; fat: 7 g; saturated fat: 2 g; carbohydrate: 69 g; dietary fibre: 11 g; sodium: 488 mg.

Roasted Fish with Fennel and Lemon

A simple recipe to prepare that’s perfect for everyday fare yet delectable enough for company. Simply double the recipe, but be sure to use a large baking dish so the fish doesn’t steam.

2 whole fish such as Mediterranean sea bass, orata or red snapper, cleaned but with head and tail (1 lb/500 g)   
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tbsp (15 ml) capers  
Grated zest from 1 lemon (about 1 tbsp/15 ml)
1/4 cup (50 m) fresh lemon juice
1 fennel bulb, greens removed and finely diced 
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped fresh parsley 
2 tbsp (25 ml) extra virgin olive oil                        
Lemon wedges

• Preheat oven to 450°F (240°C).
• Pat fish dry with paper towel. Sprinkle inside and outside with salt and pepper.
• Mix together garlic, capers, zest, lemon juice, fennel and parsley. Stuff each fish with 2 tbsp (25 ml) of fennel mixture. Place in shallow baking dish; spread remaining mixture around fish. Drizzle with oil and bake for about 15 minutes or until fish is cooked through. Place on plates; spoon fennel mixture around fish and garnish with lemon.

Makes 2 servings.
per-serving nutritional information: calories: 402; protein: 42 g; fat: 17 g; saturated fat: 3 g; carbohydrate: 14 g; dietary fibre: 5 g; sodium: 350 mg.