Union, Toronto

f you’re a regular reader of this site, you’ve probably heard the name Union before. We first reported the new Toronto restaurant as an opening soon back in the spring of 2008 and have since seen at least ten bars and restaurants open on the same Ossington Avenue stretch before it. Now well over a year later, Chef Teo Paul has finally opened the doors, and after hundreds of little delays, many of which had more to do with technical issues than conceptual issues, at long last he’s been able to get into the kitchen and start cooking.

Teo Paul’s story is one to learn from. After sending the better part of the last decade cooking in and around Paris, the Canadian-born chef built an ambitious vision for his own restaurant, one that synthesized the best elements of French bistros, cafes and Canadiana, a culmination of his entire career until that point. From the beginning, Union was well-formed on a conceptual level, but problems with construction, electrical engineering and utilities repeatedly derailed the restaurant’s progress. Teo Paul should probably have stuck to the kitchen side of business and let someone else deal with the rest.

Upon walking into the restaurant, it might be easy to wonder what took so long. The place is small (capacity under 40) and economically dressed. But then you have to realize that the space, formerly an “Old Ossington” karaoke bar, has been completely gutted and redesigned to resemble Teo’s favourite Paris spot, Le Petit Fer à Cheval (translated: “The Little Horseshoe”). A horseshoe-shaped bar greets you upon entry, an immediately welcoming element that serves as spot to wait for a table, to grab a drink or snack between mealtimes, or just hang out and have a coffee. The main dining room has only about seven or eight tables, but the entire back space is dominated by wrap-around bar, behind which is a completely open kitchen.

All of this creates an arena for Union’s vision: a laid-back, comforting atmosphere without the stigma of “gourmet cooking”. With no separation between kitchen and dining room, Teo Paul is able to cook for his guests as if they’re his own family, and deliver most dishes straight from farm to oven and oven to table. Rather than twiddling his thumbs, Teo spent a good part of Union’s fetal year forging connections with local farmers. The chef literally visits the market every morning and the farms (including his father’s) every weekend to seek out the best and freshest seasonal ingredients (sweetbreads, mussoline mushrooms, morels, etc) and supplement the staples with daily specials.

“I want to be able to get the best possible stuff out there in the most accessible possible way,” says Teo. Dishes are served communally and shared throughout a table. An entire organic chicken will come out of the oven, for instance, get cut up, and served to four people along with a pile of fries or roast spring potatoes and a smattering of local green beans. Like a Parisian café, the restaurant never closes between meals, and serves a selection of coffees, sandwiches (with fresh baked baguette and homemade meats), cheese plates, and charcuterie (house cured and smoked).

Teo Paul and Union are inseparable. From sourcing the ingredients to serving them to customers, Teo is there every step of the way. It’s been a long time coming, but Union is here and there’s no looking back.

Address: 72 Ossington Ave, Toronto, ON
Contact: 416-850-0093
Cuisine: Contemporary
Area: Ossington
Venue: Restaurant
Hours: Tue. to Sat.: 9:00am – 12:00am
Price Range: $$$ (Within Reach)
Payment: Master Card, Visa, American Express

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