Don Chile, Miami

ack in the 90’s, foodies across North America were taken by storm by a little culinary concept known as fusion. Suddenly, strawberries were getting bathed in balsamic vinegar; coleslaw was getting doused in sesame oil; and Peking style Duck could be found in a pasta dish. But now the fickle foodie world has turned its back on fusion cuisine, sloughing it off as a passing fad — that passed, I might add, many years ago. Food trends lately have been moving toward simple, more pure pleasures of the past, a kind of retro style eating that places nostalgic diners back inside their mothers’ kitchens.

The current cuisine of yesteryear, like potpie, brisket, and short ribs all belong to a not-so distant decade, the 50’s. But, Don Chile, a new Coral Gables authentic Mexican restaurant, hearkens back to a time so long ago Jesus didn’t even seem passé; now that’s retro. As it turns out, in Mexican cuisine, staying with the times, being retro that is, actually means returning to a fusion concept.

Tired of the bastardization of Mexican cuisine, Chef and owner of Don Chile, Erubiel Gutierrez, has also returned to his mother’s kitchen (Las recetas de Mama). But this culinary time travelling is not a short trip to the Mccarthy era; rather it lands Gutierrez in the 4th century, when fusion cuisine was actually developed. The Mexican food patrons will run into at Don Chile is an accurate amalgamation of Spanish cuisine with the foods indigenous to the Aztecs.

Of course, Don Chile serves all the standards – fajitas, crispy, sensual flautas, burritos, and carne asada (roasted meat) tacos. At the same time, menu items rich in historicity and flavour, like Torta Chilang, a Mexican style grilled sandwich; Pato Castellano, duck breast sautéed with pine nuts and dry smoked peppers sauce; and pickled oysters with seafood and vegetables, a dish that indeed is a rare find at any “authentic” taco stand, are the highlights of the card.

While the design of the space, with its walls lined with over-sized pre-Columbian style masks, does respect the aged Mexican culture, the interior is by no means archaic or kitschy. The contemporary walnut floors and flowing, draped ceiling provide the modern touches that a Miami Restaurant requires to be habitable.

Like many restaurants nowadays, Don Chile’s future lies in the past; this is perhaps a notion that the Miami retirees will flock to. Only time can tell…

Address: 1915 Ponce de Leon Blvd, Miami, FL
Contact: 305-461-1566
Cuisine: Mexican
Area: Coral Gables
Venue: Restaurant
Hours: Mon. – Wed. 11:00am – 10:00pm
Thu. – Sat. 11:00am – 11:00pm
Price Range: $$$ (Within Reach)
Payment: Master Card, Visa, American Express

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