Paramour, Toronto

If there’s one positive to Toronto city councillor Joe Pantalone‘s controversial Ossington moratorium, it’s that more individual attention can be paid to new spots opening on the once red-hot Toronto nightlife strip without treating them each as part of a pack. Admittedly, Ossington bars were getting a bit samey, but without the constant spark of competition, we can appreciate the brand-new Paramour for what it is: a sleek, dimly lustrous space that immediately injects some sex appeal into the strip.

Paramour sits just a few doors down from co-owners Adam Baduley and Amber Honor Elson‘s other venture, Levack Block, but according to Amber “this is a totally different animal.” Levack Block was originally envisioned as a multi-faceted bar restaurant space, but has taken on much more of a neighbourhood watering hole vibe (even if said ‘hood is loaded with hotspots). Paramour fills the other side of their vision, not a spot to grab a drink with friends, but a French-Inspired destination for fine dining. Amber calls it a date spot, but I’d be more inclined to call it a third date spot. “Paramour” does mean secret lover, after all.

Plush velvet curtains cordon off the light, which showcases the restaurant’s dark femininity. Vintage pink art deco chairs and banquettes line the walls, while model glamour shots adorn the unfinished wooden planks. The back room has more of an Alice in Wonderland vibe, with alternating black and white furniture, a communal single white-clothed table, and a polychromatic cubist painting striking contrast against the vibrant fuchsia wall. The space was obviously designed with a skilled hand, and there’s a definite pre-coital atmosphere permeating over the space.

Although style is paramount, there’s some serious high-dining cachet to back it up. House Manager Adly Gawad formerly held the post at pre-reno Splendido (one of the highest posts in the Toronto service industry), while Chef Laura Malin worked for years in the kitchen of Jamie Kennedy at the ROM.

Malin’s menu combines French elegance with Kennedy’s local sourcing, creating old-school dishes like Grilled Strip Loin au Jus, Farro ?Risotto? with bacon and mushroom, Pan Seared Lake Erie Yellow Perch with Tomato & Niçoise Olive Confit, and Mixed Mushroom and Almond Terrine with Socca Toasts and Truffle Oil. There are a few modern touches like a BLT Salad and an Herbed Turkey and White Bean meatloaf, but for the most part this is much more formal cuisine than what you’d usually find on Ossington, and it fits the carefully thought out space to a tee.

Address: 94 Ossington Avenue, Toronto, ON
Contact: 416-953-2356
Cuisine: Contemporary
Area: Ossington
Venue: Restaurant
Hours: Tue. to Sun.: 6:00pm – 11:30pm
Price Range: $$$ (Within Reach)
Payment: Master Card, Visa, American Express

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