Neato! Not. It all looks so easy when we see pics of celebrities rocking gorgeous grey heads of hair proudly. Think of the long-tressed beauties who have boldly gone grey, such as Helen Mirren (78) and Andie MacDowell (65), and master of the flirty bob Diane Keaton (78). Or look at the women who have silver crops, like Jamie Lee Curtis (65), Glenn Close (77) and Judi Dench (89). Fashion favourite Sarah Jessica Parker (59) is known for letting her grey roots show, starting the trend towards less fastidious colouring (or at least, that is what I tell myself when I have to extend the gap between touch-ups). For the guys, there is no better example than Anderson Cooper, now 56, who went with his premature greying look when his hair pigmentation began to fade at age 21. 

These starry silver heads have teams of professionals keeping their locks in order. But with a little research and some good recommendations, their grey hair secrets can be ours. 

While grey hair can seem more porous, that is not always the case, says hairstylist Janet Jackson, who is known for working her magic on celebrities such as Winnie Harlow, Usher and Keshia Chante. The founder and CEO of JouJou Hair Studio in Etobicoke, Jackson is also a L’Oreal hair expert and a curly hair whiz. “Grey hair tends to have a different texture due to decreased oil production from the scalp as you age, this can make hair feel drier and more brittle and in some cases more coarse,” she says. Changing hormones, of course, can wreak havoc on skin everywhere, including the scalp, as we age; collagen and elastin production slows, oil glands slow the release of sebum, the scalp generally becomes less elastic and can’t absorb moisture thus things dry out faster. Bummer.

Does colouring your hair make this worse or better? It depends, says Jackson. “Colouring your hair can impact its texture, but whether it makes it coarser or smoother depends on various factors such as the type of dye used, and the condition/health of your hair.” In general, she says, hair colour can cause some damage, especially if harsh chemicals are involved. “However, using ammonia-free permanent hair colour, and incorporating proper hair care into your regime will minimize any potential damage and can help maintain a smoother texture.”

As to cutting techniques, Jackson says scissor wizardry can influence how smooth your hair looks. “For instance, blunt cuts can make the ends of the hair appear thicker and feel smoother, while layering can help reduce bulk and create movement, especially in curly hair.” Beware excessive layering, though, which she says might result in frizz. Regular trims to remove split ends and maintain the overall health of the hair will contribute to a smoother look and feel. 

Lee says that he likes grey hair to be on the cutting edge. “I do prefer updating grey hair with a style that is modern and slightly edgy – which generally includes some texture. But using a razor can –if not done properly – make coarse hair feel rougher and appear really frayed.” Instead, he tends to point cut [where the hair ends are cut at an angle] or lightly use chunking or texturizing shears to achieve texture. “If you’re going for more of a classic look like a bob, ask for clean blunt lines.” 

But the real key to keeping grey hair looking soft and shiny, our experts agree, is investing time and money into treatments. Helen Mirren told Vogue India last year that castor oil is her secret hair and skin weapon, which is a cool, low-cost tip. Many cultures use various vegetable oils to condition hair; castor oil use dates back to the ancient Egyptians, who valued the plant-based elixir for its hydration properties. Jackson adds that sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners, specifically ones for dry or damaged hair, will help hydrate grey hair safely.  For in-salon treatments, Jackson “loves and uses Redken Shades EQ Clear Gloss all the time on some of our clients wanting smoother hair. This type of gloss treatment will smooth the hair shaft, and improve overall texture.” You can also do glossing treatments at home, she adds, whether for grey or colour-treated hair. “L’Oréal Paris Le Color Gloss will definitely do the trick,” she says. “In just one step; it will boost shine, condition, enhance your greys, and make it smoother!” It comes in 12 shades, including clear. 

She also recommends at-home bonding treatments, and suggests L’Oréal Paris’ Bond Repair to “rebuild, repair and recreate inner broken hair bonds at the cortex level,” she says. “This treatment repairs dry and damaged hair due to colouring, bleach, heat and chemicals.”

Lee says that Mela & Kera Balayage Exceptionnel Shampoo and Conditioner are great to soften grey hair, because they contain a complex that ultimately helps to seal down the cuticle delivering moisture to the hair at the same time.” The Balayage Exceptionnel Blowout Creme also contains a vegan Keratin which will make grey coarse hair feel silkier and softer.

Because grey hair tends to also feel dry and need moisture, Lee also recommends Moroccan Oil mask and John Frieda Frizz Ease Conditioner.

Lastly, we all know and dread the yellowing that can happen with grey hair. So why does it happen, and why do purple hair products work to counteract that? Lee explains: “Purple and yellow are opposing colours, so they ultimately will cancel each other out, resulting in a brighter, natural tone.” If home products don’t do the job, he says, an in-salon clarifying treatment can help with resistant yellowing. He points to mineral build up, smoking and environmental pollutants as possible root causes of yellowing grey.

The upshot is that “letting” your hair go grey does not necessarily mean easier care. You have to put the time and money and energy into good cuts and good treatments in and out of the salon. Great hair, after all, doesn’t just happen. But it can make your day. 

Always asking questions,

—Leanne Delap